Friday, May 27, 2011

Ravello's Duomo and Villa Cimbrone

It was a beautiful morning again, and we decided to catch a bus from Amalfi up to Ravello, to explore its gardens, and to aquaint ourselves with the town, as the following day was our cooking class with Mama Agata who also lived in Ravello.
We drove along the Amalfi Coast Road, through Atrani (above), then taking a sharp left at Castiglione, and climbed the hills far up above the town of Minori.
Taking the Red "hop on, hop off" bus was great, as we received some useful information on the way.

Cannot believe how they built little churches and houses high up on top of rocks - (not the best 2 photos - on the move in the bus)

And farm all the way up these ridges - there is a lot of shade cloth which they use to keep the hot sun off their Lemon orchards, and other crops.

The bus drops us off at the edge of town, as Ravello is car free, except for deliveries and the like.
We visited the Duomo first, which was erected in the 11th Century. It has undergone many renovations, but skilled restorations lasting decades has brought it back to its original state.
There are a few features of Paleo-Christian architecture (including a slanted floor towards the Altar, symbol of the path to God). One of it's pulpits (the Pulpit of the Gospel), created by Nicola Bartolomeo of Foggia and donated by Nicola Rufolo in 1272. This pulpit (below) sits on 6 columns with capitals from the French school, and supported by lions.
We then wandered up and down through Ravello's lanes, towards the gardens of Villa Cimbrone.
We stopped and admired this restaurant, and it abundance of white wisteria. rambling under its pegola, and right next door to the restaurant was it's own garden perched on the side of a hill. Villa Cimbrone sits on 6 hectares, and is considered one of the most important examples of the landscape, botany and culture of England created in the Mediterranean area. I believe the original building was erected in 11th century and the luxuriant vegetaion produced fine timber for naval use. It passed from one very wealthy family to the next, but by the end of the 19th century it had been abandoned. Along came an English nobleman - Lord Beckett Grimthorpe, he had been suffering with depression since the early death of his wife - the intense happiness which this magical place brought him, lead him to buy the estate in 1904, determined to bring it back to life and to turn it into a work of art and to him "the finest place in the world." Lord Grimthorpe assigned a man of grand creative skills, Nicola Mansi from Ravello , for the restoration of the Estate, and they succeeded.
The entrance doors
and cloister Cimbrone's tea room The Avenue of Immensity
It is a happy combination of English and Italian landscaped gardens and fortunately for us pretty much in bloom. Our favourite The Terrace of Infinity Below -looking back to the Temple of Ceres. This natural terrace is adorned with 18th century marble busts - except for dressed one?
We hung around "Infinity" for some time!
Below is the Hortensia Avenue There have been many illustrious guests over the years - it is where in 1938, actress Greta Garbo and her companion and orchestra director Leopold Stokowsky enjoyed happy moments apparently.
Villa Cimbrone itself is a very comfortable hotel, with incredible views
Time to check out the ceramics. While the Brig orders us a snack. Villa Rufolo is the afternoon's venue.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Amalfi Coast Road

Antonio picked us up mid morning to drive us via the twists and curls of the Amalfi Coast Road to the town of Amalfi. Spectacular scenery, we were hanging off the side of a cliff some of the time, and didn't have too many opportunities to stop, but when we did, it was wonderful. (Unfortunately my photos are a little hazy though)
First real stop was above the town of Positano
Looking sideways to the upper part of Positano crawling up the sides of these cliffs!!
We drove down into Positano, this is where a sailor, Falvio Gioia was born, he reportedly created the first compass in the 1500's, however, Amalfi Town claims the same (they have a large statue in the Piazza of Falvio), and then of course some say he came from Naples and then there are those that say he never existed - the compass had to come from somewhere!!

While driving through the upper street/lane, we spotted our first set of Positano stairs??

Antonio dropped us off at the lowest part he could get the car too
and we started to wander

Hydrangeas were in full bloom

Piazza's statue

And further down

To the Duomo's "angel"

The Duomo (church) from its own Piazza

And looking up at it from Positano Beach

Positano's beach

We move back up hill to the car

Antonio suggests we drive up into these great hills to his friend's Trattoria

We settle in for a suprise menu at Taverna La Taglieta

basically we ate whatever they put in front of us - superb.

and so reasonable.

we were accompanied by stunning scenery - low and high

Another stop on this incredible road

Don't remember the name of this place, just that people pay quite a few euros to lay on this beach, that is after they walk down hundreds of stone steps, then to complete their day they climb back up those same steps. (I do love Burleigh even more now).

A few kilometres from Amalfi town, we drove down to the entrance to the Emerald Grotto, it was quiet and we enjoyed our 15 minutes floating around in this wonderful cave of colour, with some italian grotto serenades from our boat captain. Took a few photos, this is the best of a very bad bunch.

Our last stop was the approach to Amalfi town.

Amalfi looked wonderful from a distance - our hotel is the white one on the very low left of the photo below.

This hotel was nothing grand, but it was on the flat harbour part of Amalfi, a five minute walk from the centre of town. Most other hotels are situated on the Coast Road where one must share the road (no prominent footpaths) with all the buses and cars to get to town, then climb back up to get out - or in town where they can enjoy the constant sound of those young italian boys hammering around on their beloved Vespas. Peace and easy walking was our choice.

This hotel had only been open for 2 days, as it closes for winter, and the Manager gave us the choice of 3 rooms, we took the one with the best views of this active harbour. You couldn't swing a cat in the room, and there was no beloved bath, but we gave preference to what was happening on this harbour for the next 8 days, and the staff were such a happy bunch, so things were lookin' good.

Views from our deck - above, to the left

the front had seafood restaurants

and to the right, other hotels on the cliffs with their a "scary" walks down to town, We are really happy with our choice, that's for sure.