Sunday, May 27, 2012

Tenby and St. Davids - Cloud and Sun

It was a very cool and cloudy day, but things were there to be seen and done - so today (May 10th) was Tenby - 2 reasons, to see this lovely walled town and port, and also to see if we could get "upgrade"for my usage on my "dongle", as the "server" would not do it via phone - and as my "dongle's" internet reception did not really work on the shores of Saundersfoot - we needed to find a place with WiFi to sort out this whole upload situation.  Where else - a Tenby Pub, with great Wifi access, and a smashing cup of coffee (11 am in the morning).  Eventually got it done, though there has been some further telephone complaints  on why it can't be done by phone, and through this Kevin has managed to get me another upgrade.  Guess this server could work better if we weren't continually surrounded by welsh mountains.   With that job done - it is now time to walk around Tenby.


I took a fancy to Tenby's very upmarket "Litter" bins.


Margaret and Frank allow Mrs Shutterbugs a quick shot.


Small lanes with numerous steps lead down to Tenby Harbour


Below is a late 15th Century town house - it is the kind of middle-class house a reasonably successful Tudor merchant might have chosen - the National Trust has undertaken extensive restoration of this property - we were fortunate to be able to use Margaret and Kevin's NT passes, and the enthusiasm for this property from the volunteers within was a real pleasure on this cold and cloudy day. (To the left of this house, is the tiniest bookshop I have ever seen - just amazing really)


Back to the house - we entered the ground floor (below) - this great fire was kept going day and night in 1490's,  helping keep the house dry and warm.  We were told, visitors would've been greeted to a bustle of activity on this floor, with the scent of a hempen rope of spices such as cinnamon and ginger, of tar and fine wines and other herbs and 'specially the smell of cooking.


Superstition was everywhere, but nowhere more than the kitchen - we still believed in witches, the Evil Eye, the Devil was a real person, you know he sat on your left shoulder, so if the cook boy spilled some salt, we all threw some over our left shoulder to blind "Beelzebub", not our "Guardian Angel".


On the first floor is where the family lived, played, fed, worked and received visitors.  If you had come here in the 1490's you'd have been received by the lady of the house and offered some piment, a medieval drink still much liked in Pembrokeshire, a rough red wine served piping hot spiced with ginger, cinnamon and honey.  Perhaps a civele might be offered to go with your drink, a tiny pancake biscuits made of ground almond, egg, sugar and wine, cooked in butter.


A boy painted lime on the wainscot twice a day as a primitive insecticide, there were herbs about to make the air sweet and discourage plague (an ever present worry) or the Evil Eye, hobgoblins still had their little place by the fire.....for all our Tudor sophistication we were haunted by the "unknown".


Then to bed on the top floor, fairly early (like moi in normal circumstances) windows tight shut against poisonous and noxious things - a jug of Loosestrife to keep us from Black Death (fleas don't like it's smell, and it's they who brought the deadly germ into our houses at regular intervals throughout the middle ages!)


Well it was misty, but still charming in my eyes


The pastel coloured houses surround this port


Hey, is that a palm tree above?


The church steeple towers above Tenby harbour


Frank and Margaret wandering to the upper harbour lookout


Past the house where Henry Tudor - father of Henry V111, 


 may have escaped through a tunnel


under this house in 1471 when he fled to France


The "lifeboat house" red roof at top left of this photo above, is actually now a delightful home - we saw it's restoration on the english TV programme - "Grand Designs"


We then found a small market place, and a great Deli, bought some welsh cheese, pork pies and a thing called "faggot"- next time I will leave the faggot to the Welsh tastebuds!!!.


Some of the quaint shops adding to Tenby's charm.


Back to Saundersfoot, and a short walk down to Shoreline


 for a Hot Chocolate, and just a bit of cake.



******

ST. DAVID'S
May 11th


First check on today's Welsh weather - ah, can see the rays of that sun!


Today we set off for the St. Davids on the west coast of Wales


We stopped en route to take in the beauty around


St. Brides Bay 


Parked down near a stream in St. Davids


and headed for this famous Cathedral


The city of St.  Davids, which sits on the river Alun, is Britain's smallest city in size and population and is the final resting place of Saint David, Wales Patron Saint. It is built around St. David's Cathedral, which was a popular place of pilgrimage in the middle ages.


There are the ruins of the 14th Century Bishop's Palace as well


Pope Caluxtus 11 reportedly decreed that two pilgrimages to St. Davids were equivalent to one in Rome.


Saint David was supposedly born around 500 AD, and he founded this city around 550 AD


Gravestone above - Elizabeth - backdropped by the Bishops Palace


The church was created over 3 centuries with incredible craftsmen - when one looks up to the roof created by the wood turners - it is amazing.


As are the stained glass windows


The choir stalls and organ


tiling and beautiful doors.


The Cloisters are also spectacular


There is now a cafe above the Cloisters - which of course we visited for a hot coffee.


We then roamed around the ruins of the Bishops Palace


and also watched a wedding procession into St. Davids


Also at St. Davids is the 15th century tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of King Henry V11 - founder of the Welsh born Tudor dynasty.


We ascended the steps to the tower to have another look at this magnificent Cathedral.


There is a 14th Century Tower and Celtic old cross overlooking St. Davids.


We wandered up into town, found a great little pub, and again had another delightful lunch overlooking this very Grande Cathedral.


Then back home to the apartment


to beach watch on our very last evening in Saundersfoot.

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