Sunday, May 22, 2011

Isola Ischia

We left early for Sorrento Port to catch a Hydrofoil to Isola Ischia, the largest of the 3 islands in the Bay of Naples and Tyrrhenian Sea. It is famous for its mineral springs, of volcanic origin. The rumour is, that the giant Typhoeus, struck by Zeus' thunderbolt, was buried under Ischia, the cause of the occasional groanings and shakings that have marked Ischia's long history. Compared with its neighbour island, Capri, Ischia is larger, wilder and considerably less manicured than its chic but more touristy neighbour. Ischia Porte is such a pretty harbour to cruise into.

Colourful buildings backdropped by some wild hills

And on looking back to the beginning of this harbour, we saw a rather large cruise ship moving across this entry.

Our game plan for the day, was to have a good look around Ischia Port, and then make our way over to Ischia Ponte to check out Castello Aragonase, followed by finding a Trattoria to taste some good local seafood, before catching the hydrofoil back to Sorrento.

We decided to wander around their beaches - Ischia prides itself on these.

Colourful little numbers, with a volcanic grey sand

Kids playing soccer

Little boats everywhere

And the sun lounges waiting for some early season occupants

Just alive with colour, and getting ready for the start of their summer season

We then wandered along the main street The buildings are so bright

and some blossoms were in bloom.

Managed to get a couple of shots of their doors

The Fish Shop

One of the church's doors

Love the position of their washing lines - they never seem to lose anything onto the ground.

Frank couldn't get over the size of some of their vehicles

Delivery trucks as well

Why was this taken - same coffee we use!!!

Along the way we checked out menus in some of the cafes

Loved this Pizzeria, the tables were surrounded by orange trees, all in full fruit. Stopped for a gelati at Bar Diana, served by its colourful waiter (in the blue)
Nearly 2 hours had passed
we could see the Castello Aragonase now - nearly there
When we arrived at the Pier near the Castello, we looked back at Ischia Porte Peninsular

and realised how far we had walked.

This is the Castello's story as we were told!. The Castle was built as a fort in 474 BC by Greek Syracuse Hiero 1, to come to the aid of Cumani in the war against Tirreni. In 315 BC the Romans founded the city of Ischia and most likely used the castle as a defensive fort and built some houses.

Many more wars, looters and pirates, then in 1441 Alfonso of Aragon rebuilt part of the castle and joined the island it sat on to the main island by an artifical bridge, with strong walls and fortification, in which all the people of Ischia found refuge and protection against the Pirates. (a little more on this Castello and her related story at the end)

It was time to do our "late lunch", but not by another 2 hour trek, we took one of their "minute/tiny" taxis back to the Ischia Porte.

Found a great little Trattoria right on the harbour front, in the sun, and enjoyed a really tasty seafood lunch, both the waiters were a couple of characters.

Our communication by hand signals must've been okay, as the Head Waiter insisted on shouting us a Limoncello (one little sip was ample, thank you).

Unfortunately, it was time to leave, only one Hydrofoil in early morning, and one out late afternoon.

*****

On sailing out we could see Castello Aragonese again. More of this story. The heyday for this Castle occurred in the late sixteenth century when the fortress housed 1892 people, as well as the Convent of the Poor Clares, and there were 13 churches there!

Around 1750 when the danger of pirates was less, people moved back into various towns on the main Island, but in 1809 the English besieged the Castle, held by the French and shelled to destroy it almost completely. It was used as a Prison after that, and in 1851, Ferdinand 1, King of Naples sent away the last 30 inhabitants. In 1860, with the arrival of Garibaldi in Naples, this was closed and joined to the Kingdom of Italy. In 1912 it was auctioned and is in the hands of individuals who look after the restoration and management. (Just amazing what and where they could build 2,500 years ago).

An hour later we entered Sorrento Harbour

This time we found a bus that would take us back up that cliff!!!.

What a really great day, and again the legs needed another hot bath.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Sunday in Sorrento

What a morning, the sun was shining, and the hotel's courtyard (for breakfast) was full of flowers - loved the wisteria.
The breakfasts here were stunning, actually this was by far the best hotel of our trip, the cleanliness and courtesy of the staff was outstanding.
The receptionist advised us it was Palm Sunday, and Sorrento's Cathedral would be conducting a service at 10 a.m.
We wandered along to the Cathedral, where the locals arrived carrying branches of Olive trees, adorned with little cheeses and other small food items. At a specific time during this service (we don't understand italian) these branches were lifted and held in the air. Everyone was dressed in their Sunday best, 'specially the little bambinos.
We strolled along the little streets near the Cathedral, and were amazed at the size of their lemons. Lemon and Orange trees (in full fruit) line the streets. There are large fenced lemon orchards in the main street - so we climbed the stairs to spend some time in one of them - so peaceful. and followed this by visiting one of the local "Limocello" makers in town. Across the small cobbled street was the old Opera House - now a coffee bar where the local older men seem to gather. The old frescoes around the door are delightful.
The horses were out

and Sorrento was starting to fill for Sunday lunch.

The wisteria was everywhere.

We decided to walk down to the Port

It was a loong way down
Some lovely old houses and hotels hanging to cliffs We took the steep stair route down,
and the photo below actually shows the same house (from the port) as in the 2 photos above from the cliff...

We thought about our approach to returning back up this cliff

and chose to walk the long and winding road back

finished off by some steep stairs (on the left)

Our legs were cactus by the end of this longish saunter.

It just had to be "happy hour"??

We followed this up with another pizza at Da Francos, and a gelati to follow, and most importantly - a long hot bath to attempt the repair of our "abused" legs.

*****

"Come back to Sorrento" sung by Dean Martin, is spot on - a delightful town, steep but asolutely charming and filled with the fresh scent of "citrus".

Friday, May 20, 2011

Our feet are back in OZ

Well, we are home - after a fantastic and energetic trip to Italy - nearly 5 weeks. Landed in Brisbane Airport early yesterday morning - must say it all seems to work very well. We picked up our bags quickly, went through the "I have something to declare" gate (always do, just in case), and then found our way to the International platform of the Brisbane train system. Just so easy, put our bags on a trolley at pick up, after customs wheeled them over, put them in an elevator down to the platform, train came (every half hour to Robina) loaded/wheeled them on the train, and the last part of our trip started. Ah, but half way home to Robina we received a phone call from Emirates - requesting us to look at our bags - yep, we had picked up an identical one to mine (never seen another one like it before), and of course mine (with the tartan ribbon on handle) was somewhere else. Anyway, it was all resolved with a couple of telephone conversations, the lady (Cathy) who picked up mine, didn't realise till she arrived home (fortunately in Brisbane) and asked her husband, (who hadn't travelled with her) to take the bag into their house. His comment was, gee even though Emirates let you take 30 kgs, this one is heavier, and then to his great amusement, he chanted "hey dear, guess what - it is not even yours!!" So this morning we drove half way to Brisbane, and the "chanting husband" met us and we exchanged these vibrant red bags - and of course Cathy's bag's weight was easily as heavy as Liz's bag weight! Lesson learned - double check your bag's identification...
*****
Of course, before we left Pienza in Tuscany for Rome Airport, we spent some time making sure we packed correctly, all liquids and sharp items went into "check in" bags. However, we overlooked the special Amalfi bottle of Lemoncillo we had bought for our neighbours who looked after our garden - packed that in my carry on for safety purposes, and Frank forgot his little "scanpan" scissors in our prescription medicine bag!!. On entering Rome airport - we were caught!!! The scissors were signed off and into the "bad bin", as did the nicely packed bottle of Lemoncillo, but then the Officer seemed to take some pity on me (which I didn't request, because I realised how stupid I had been at this stage), and she requested that I could carry it with me on the flight - yes, was the answer. Great, I thought, BUT then we reached Dubai, and back through security again - this time I really expected to lose our little liquid gift - and was okay with this, we would just have to pick up another "more impersonal" bottle in duty free. My bag went through, the man checking out the goods on the camera wasn't even looking at the screen of contents, and my "bag with bottle" just flowed through so to speak - and now it is home in one piece - ready to be passed on to the boys for their great help while we were away, but not until we can relay their bottle's international security journey to them!
*****
Dropping off the Car in Rome - interesting, but really not that hard, and then this morning the Brig wanted to drive our little Subaru on the other side of the road, and try it as a "manual shift", and my little girl is automatic - that didn't last for long though, that's for sure.
*****
I have added some photos to our first day in Italy below, and will start working through the rest of the "pics" as time goes on.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Incredible Tour

Our Group Tour started a few days ago in Rome, incredible mix of people, Canadians, Americans and a pile from Queensland. Everyone gets along really well, and our guide, an attractive Brit who has lived in Italy for about 20 years is a real hot ticket, and to make things even better, the weather has been great. Oh, and our driver, Carlo is very calm on these dramatic suicidal roads. I am writing this in Lake Maggiore, we arrived yesterday. We spent a pile of time at the Vatican etc. the day before Pope John Paul,s Beatification - very busy but really great, Rome is quite something. Then onto Tuscany, Florence, San Gim, Sienna etc. This was followed by time at Cinque Terre and a couple of boat rides along this stunning coast, and now we are in the Lake District, tomorrow the Dolomites for a couple of days, then onto Venice. Sooh many photos, but they will have to wait till we get home. Must away, we are off to Stresa today, also Frank and I are catching a ferry to Santa Caterina and having lunch on Isola Pescatore - hopefully will get a couple of postcards off as well, Ciao