York is the last place we visited before going back to Sheffield for Frank's Birthday celebration, repack, and farewells. We had both really wanted to visit York - in the 6 years I lived in the UK I never visited, and Frank had never been there as well. We had heard from many how delightful it was, and now we were really fortunate as David's (Frank's eldest son) partner, Dotti and her two kids live there, and she had offered to show us around. David and Jack flew in from the USA a few days earlier - the 5 of them spending a weekend in Sardinia before we met up in York. Dotti had organised for us to meet at Betty's Tea Rooms for breakfast the first morning. We wandered from the Churchill Hotel past the Minster to Betty's. Below is a photo of Frank quite in awe of this magnificent structure.
Now Betty's is very special - quite a long story actually re it's origination - a young orphaned baker from Switzerland who had spent his teens in apprenticeships for all manner of bakers and confectionary across Europe arrived in London around 1918, caught the train to Yorkshire, and loved the countryside - reminded him of his native Switzerland, he decided to stay. He opened his first Betty's Cafe Tea rooms in 1919. This Tea room in York (inspired by the Queen Mary Cruise Liner) became particularly popular during the War Years, when the basement "Betty's Bar" became the favourite destination of the hundreds of American and Canadian "Bomber Boys" stationed around York. "Betty's Mirror" on which many of them engraved their signatures with a diamond pen, remains on display at the branch today. This business has been handed down through the family, who still runs Bettys today. There are a few stories on why this young swiss baker - Frederick Belmont named it Betty's, one theory is after the Queen Mother.
Anyway, we met up with Dotti, Jack and David here, had a delicious breakfast, in fact it was so good we returned again the next morning - the outstanding display of their goods and the service is quite something.
Jack and David (above) outside the famous York Minster - this is where we would spend the next part of our morning.
This Cathedral is one of the largest of its kind in Northern Europe
There has been a church on this site, the first being built of Timber - since 627 AD
The length of the Minster is 158 metres, it's central Tower height is 60 metres and the Western Towers are 53 metres.
The stained glass is outstanding, some of it dates back to the twelfth century
Approximately 2 million individual pieces of glass make up the Cathedral's 128 stained glass windows.
Below is the stunning ceiling in the Chapter House
Jack contemplating in this outstanding piece of architecture.
This astronomical clock below was installed in York Minster in 1955 - the clock is a memorial to the airmen operating from the bases in Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland who were killed in action during World War II.
What an incredible Cathedral.
We wandered towards the York City's old walls
along High Petergate to Bootham Bar (gatehouse) - York has 4 main Bars
This one, Bootham has some of the oldest surviving stonework - dating to 11th Century.
York city has more miles of intact wall than any other city in England
It's a lovely walk
we checked out all the gardens
with the Minster in view at all times.
We then headed through the "Shambles" with its haphazard arrangement of building
from all periods in time - (just so charming)
to a Pub on the banks of the River Ouse
Jack opted for an ice cream.
Our next stop was the magnificent medieval Merchant Adventurers' Hall
The majority of the Hall was built in 1357 by a group of influential men and women
who came together for a religious fraternity.
It was granted the status of Company of Merchant Adventurers of York by Queen Elizabeth I in the sixteenth century.
The Great Hall is a timber-framed structure and it is the largest timber-framed building in the UK still standing and used for its original purpose.
We spent quite a bit of time within the Great Hall - truly magnificent.
Some lovely stained glass windows
They have an extensive set of records, with documents dating from the 13th century and accounts dating back to 1432.
Next we met up with Dotti's two (Amy and Andrew) after school and headed to Jorvik
When the Vikings conquered York in 866 AD the city already possessed a long urban history - in charge was "Ivar the Boneless" leading a large army of Danish Vikings called the "Great Heathen Army" by Anglo Saxon chroniclers. Founded by the Romans in 71 AD as a fortress town York fulfilled this purpose for more than 350 years, until the end of Roman rule in Britain. Another 450 years of Anglo-Saxon York followed during which the town was a major royal ecclesiastical and trading centre. Consequently when the Vikings took over, they found many urban features ready-made for them The massive Roman walls, for instance, were so solidly built that even after four centuries, the Vikings were able to use them as part of the defences for their own York - or Jorvik, as they named it. Much of the detail about Jorvik comes from the excavation of four house plots Viking-age (800 to 1050 AD) in Coppergate, York from 1976 to 1981 - called "The Coppergate Dig", and this is where the Viking Centre now stands.
Everything in the Jorvik Viking Centre is based on the evidence unearthed at the site. An incredible 40,000 objects discovered by archeologists, including 10th century Viking-age buildings.
The displays are excellent - even the faces have been reconstructed from authentic Viking skulls - an absolutely amazing experience for us.
We then wandered off around some other really quaint medieval streets and lanes.
Above - Andrew, Dotti, the Brig and David
And above, Andrew, Jack and Amy in the Stocks!
This Busker certainly caught Jack's attention
and Amy's
I think we were in Stonegate
Loved the little mustard coloured house on the right hand side below
And of course I found "Christmas Angels" in Low Petergate - I spent a bit of time and managed a few purchases from here..
We then went to a really special Indian Restaurant - probably the nicest we have been to.
The decor, service and food was really superb - as was the company of course.
After a long nights sleep, we joined Dotti, Jack and David again at Betty's for another great brekky, then boarded York's Red - Hop on, Hop of for a tour of York.
Clifford's Tower - very sad story relating to this building which I won't go into.
York's Eye
We hopped off at the Yorkshire Museum.
and Gardens
There are many "local" historical artefacts
from Medieval York
Roman York
and Viking York
gardens
and the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey Church
Three generations of Wroes below
We hopped back on the bus again and thought about trying out Jamie Oliver's new Bistro, we found it, but unfortunately we were a week prior to the opening - so found a great Pub next door - and had some super Fajitas for a late lunch. We then farewelled - to meet again on Saturday in Sheffield.
We wandered back towards the Churchill
taking in the gorgeous roof lines
around Bootham Bar (gatehouse) which was just down the lovely road from our Hotel.
A delightful couple of days - thank you for your great organisation Dotti, and the books you both gave Frank on "Roman York"and York "A Time to Look Back" are excellent.
York is an incredible place through our eyes.
*****
